Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
