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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.